Question 1

When ice fishing for walleyes, when should I set tip-ups, and when should I concentrate on jigging?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

To me, tip-ups and jigging go hand in hand. It all revolves around maximizing my efforts on the ice. Having as many lines in the water at one single time while chasing walleyes – I am maximized!! And, along the same notion, I maximize my efforts to use each line as beneficial as possible to a plan of attack for the piece of structure I might be fishing that particular day.
 
Flats fishing – here I am looking for slight variables in the flat. A depression, a slight rise or maybe a patch of sandgrass. It’s the little things, and each little thing I find I am going to set either a tip-up on or myself to jig up a fish or two. 
 
Structure fishing – Breaks, underwater points or reefs. Now we want to strategically use all our lines to cover different depths and different parts of the structure. For myself, I am always looking for turns, cups and points with-in each of these different structures. After finding them, I set the traps and then run and gun from hole to hole searching for fish with my jig stick.
Good ICE Fishing

Question 2

How Do I Be Efficient When Night Fishing For Muskies?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Night fishing for Muskie is really no different than daytime, but a few little things in preparation make for efficiency. It’s a good idea to put away all Muskie by Moonlightlures that may be laying around, since they’re hard to avoid in the dark. Have only the lures you intend to use out and I like to have these pre-rigged on separate rod and reel combos.

Make certain there is a headlamp for every angler. Hands free lighting is a must to handle simple tasks like freeing weeds, handling backlashes and landing fish. Put strips of glow tape on all hard-bodied plugs and strips on bucktail blades or around the shaft. Charge these every fifteen minutes or so-so you can see lures as they approach the boat and do good figure eights or "O’s".

Know exactly where release tools and landing devices are. It’s a good idea to put the boat landing on your GPS too. It's easier to get lost in the dark than you think!

Question 3

How Do I Rig Tip-Ups for Walleyes

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

In most ice fishing locales, tip-ups are normally not as popular for winter walleye fishing as jigging with rod and reel. But make no mistake about it, when rigged correctly, a well placed tip-up can be a deadly presentation for finicky walleyes.

For rigging tip-ups for walleyes we like Berkley’s Tip-Up Line (20 pound test) as the main line, and tie on a small swivel that we use to attach a leader of 8 or 10 pound test Berkley Vanish Fluorocarbon Leader Material. At the business end we tie on a Mustad Double Wide Fine Wire Bait Hook (model 10548R). In the early part of the ice fishing season the walleyes tend to be a bit more aggressive eaters so we will go with a larger #1 size hook and a 4 to 5 inch minnow (like a Sucker Minnow or Chub). The minnow is hooked through the back with the hook parallel to the dorsal fin and the point of the hook facing the head of the minnow. We find this set-up really increases the hooking percentage even over using a treble hook as many anglers prefer on their tip-ups. As the season progresses and the fish get more “finicky”, we will drop down in bait and hook size accordingly.

Question 4

During a tough bite what type of numbers constitutes a pattern unfolding?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Actually in really tough bites, a pattern might be formed by one fish, one fish bite or even just seeing fish on an underwater camera. The one thing that I have always done is try to establish where a good number of fish are holding – paying attention to the conditions when I do locate a school. What is the water temp and clarity? What is the wind – is it blowing on the structure, are the fish located on the upwind side or the lee side of the structure? Is it a sunny day or cloudy day, etc?. Especially during tough bites little changes in the environment may turn on or turn off the fish that are present.

Once I find where fish are holding, then I try to figure out the most aggressive technique possible to catch them. Ideally I’d like to pull a crank bait and catch the fish, but may have to slow down to spinners, live bait, jigging or rigging to catch them. The final step is to find more locations similar to the productive areas so that I can develop a “milk run”. Of course if conditions change (for better or worse) a good tournament angler can adapt – and at times even throw out all the information found in pre-fishing and start from scratch.

Question 5

What’s the rule-of-thumb for setting the drag on a reel used to jig big walleyes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Several factors come into play when considering how to set the drag for catching bigger-than-average walleyes:

The type and pound test of line
The length and action of the rod used
How good (smooth) the drag is on the reel being used

For the type of jigging you are talking about I use 8lb Berkley NanoFil, a medium light action rod (6 ft Bass Pro Shops Walleye Angler Signature Series model (WL60MLJS) and a quality reel like the Bass Pro Shops Carbon Lite series which has a very and durable drag. I set the drag so that I hear the drag pullout a little on a solid hook set. If it’s a big fish, I try to get to back reeling as quick as possible.

Question 6

What length and action of spinning rod and what line is best for live bait rigging walleyes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Rigging is a real finesse technique. You have to feel the bite and release the line quickly – before the fish feels you. For that reason I use a ML 7′ rod with a “medium” taper. The medium taper means that rod will have a very soft tip – thereby reducing the chance of the fish feeling me. To make up for the softer action, I like to use a high modulus graphite rod. The one I use is the Walleye Angler Signature Series (WL70MLS). Very light weight but very strong and most importantly very sensitive. The other reason for the 7 foot rod is that I use a “reeling” hookset. When I think it is time to set the hook, instead of sweeping the rod, I just start to reel – very fast. That way if I made a mistake and was just feeling the sinker weight (and not the fish), I will continue to put continuous pressure on the fish and loose very few. For line – I like 6lb Berkley Trilene Sensation or Berkley Professional Grade Fluorocarbon. Both have lower stretch (giving me good feel). A no-stretch line like Berkley Fireline is nice too – you will feel the bites quickly, but I think the fish also feel you better. By the way, if you don’t have a real sensitive rod – FireLine is a great choice.

Question 7

Inline weights vs. Snap weights! What are the real disadvantages and advantages of each?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

The big difference between in-line weights and Snap Weights is the action they put on your spinner. In-lines are run right ahead of your spinner with a 2 to 6 foot snell. When you get in waves, and the boat or boards are surging, the in-line weight will move up and down and the spinner will follow in its path quickly – an erratic action. With Snap Weights, you can put out any length leader you want (typically 25 to 50 feet). Now when the weight surges, the spinner follows slowly – an undulating action. Of course you can also run the Snap Weights on a short leader to get the erratic action.

Which is best? Let the walleyes tell you. I’ve seen days when one way out produces the other – but can’t say I can give exact conditions that dictate one over the other. I almost always start with 2 in-lines, 2 Snap Weights and go with the bites.

<img src="http://s428742355.onlinehome.us/TNBWP/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/OR20_2010.jpg" alt="" />The beauty of the Off Shore Tackle OR20 Pro Weight System is that it gives you both styles of weights in one convenient package. The unique Pro Guppy Weights can be easily rigged as both in-line or snap-on style weights and come in a variety of sizes to fit any trolling scenario.

Question 8

Would it make a big difference using vanish vs fireline when vertical jigging?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Berkley Vanish is a good choice for a mono for vertical jigging because it is fluorocarbon. One of the attributes of fluorocarbon is that it is low stretch.

That said, when I vertical jig, I use Berkley FireLine. You will find that because of the no-stretch attribute of FireLine, it will be very easy to not only feel bites – but maybe more importantly – you will be able to feel the bottom and maintain bottom contact much better.

Over the past couple years I have been vertical jigging with Crystal FireLine. This stuff is translucent in water and in many situations I have found that I get more bites using Crystal than Smoke or Flame Green.

I use 6 lb FireLine when vertical jigging – the 2 pound diameter also helps cut through the water to keep your presentation as vertical as possible. But it is strong enough to pull in any walleye (I caught my biggest walleye ever on 6 lb FireLine – it was 15.8 pounds).

Question 9

Weather’s affect on walleye feeding behavior?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Weather is absolutely one of the most influential factors in predicting a good walleye bite. Stable weather means active fish. It’s virtually the same whether you’re talking walleyes, muskies, or even pike. Stable weather is typically described as three or more days of mild conditions without any fronts moving through; however it doesn’t mean that is the only stability that will get fish biting. If you get three or four back to back days of cloudy, windy weather chances are the fish are going to go on a bite. The irony of it is that the peak period in this feeding window of opportunity usually occurs just prior to the next front moving through or a new high pressure system arriving. The short time before the weather change is when the fish often get the most active. The lesson here is to keep a close eye on the weather … not just on the day you plan to go fishing, but over the course of several days at a time. It won’t take long for you to begin seeing the patterns develop, and by paying attention, before long you’ll be able to better predict active feeding periods and prime times to be on the water.

Question 10

What characteristics should I consider when choosing a rod for walleye trolling?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

When choosing a trolling rod, you need the following characteristics: 1) It needs a strong backbone. I would call the rod a fast taper rod – medium to medium heavy. It will have to hold the weight of not only crank baits, but Snap Weights, Off Shore planer boards, In-line weights and maybe Lead Core line. 2) It need a fighting tip. Trolling fish are often reeled in long distances. With a soft tip in the last 1/3 of the rod (again fast taper) you will land more of the fish that bite. 3) Long enough to spread lures. Spreading is done two ways, by putting the rods straight out in rod holders or by using in-line planer boards. For boards, we put our rod tips way up in the air so the line from the rod tip to the board does not hit the water. In our line of rods (Walleye Angler Signature Series) we have trolling rods ranging from 7’6″ to 8’6″ with telescopinig handles, as well as 10 & 12 footers that are 2 piece rods. Of course add in durability, high quality components, and a reasonable price (cause eventually you will want a bunch of them) and you have a good trolling rod.

Question 11

When going after open water suspended walleyes on a large lake, how do you determine where to start?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

I search, search, search – then fish. Winnebago, like most open water fisheries, has a ton of water that could hold fish. With today’s electronics it is not that hard to graph until you mark something to fish. On Winnebago that might be suspended archs or it might be areas with bait fish clouds. Remember, once you do see fish – try to run your baits (cranks or spinners) at or above the level of the fish. Walleyes eat in an upward direction so fishing too low is a common mistake. By the way – my best set up for Winnebago in June/July is running a moderate action baits like a size 6 or 7 Berkley Flicker Shad behind an Off Shore Tackle OR-12 Side Planer board. Set the bait so it runs about 8 feet down (over 17 to 18 feet). For “Bago” that’s a good zone to contact fish … other lakes may vary!

Question 12

What’s the best procedure for deploying a trolling set-up when using a weighting system and boards?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

For letting out trolling sets with boards where a weighting system is being used (Offshore Pro Weights, Keel Weights or Lead Core Line), normally when cranking I use my “clicker” on my line counter to keep some pressure on the board – allowing me to start working on the next setup. For spinners with weights the clicker can be too fast – especially if I am fishing close to the bottom. In this case, I still turn on my clicker, but instead of disengaging the spool, I simply turn down my drag until the line just barely starts to click/pull out. It takes quite a while to move the board out, but at this slow let-out speed it is fishing the whole time so no time is wasted.

Question 13

What line for trolling walleyes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

For years, when trolling with mono, I use mostly Berkley Trilene XT in 10 pound test. It is very abrasion resistant. I stick with the clear or Green. XT is not a real expensive line, so you can afford to re-spool more often to keep fresh line in play.

There are times I use Berkley FireLine (also in 10 pound test) for trolling for a couple of reasons. For flat-lining this no stretch line will transmit the lures action to my rod tip so I can more easily monitor if the lure has got fouled (weeds, Zebra Mussels, etc). On board fishing, FireLine is useful to get crankbaits to dive deeper because it is such low diameter (10# FireLine is same diameter as 4# mono). The Precision Trolling Book charts the precise difference, but for many cranks it can mean up to 30% more depth which can be just the extra depth needed to get down to the fish.

If you do use FireLine on boards (I use Off Shore Tackle OR-12 Side Planers), you will have to either double wrap the lines on the conventional releases or go to a release like the OR18, or “Snapper Release” (Click Here to learn More) www.offshoretackle.com/OR18.html. This release has an adjusting screw on the bottom so you can tighten it so even thin/slippery FireLine will stay in place.

One thing to remember, don’t use FireLine is you are Open Water spinner fishing – stick with 10XT/Mono.

Question 14

What’s a good rod and reel combo for river jigging walleyes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Vertical Jigging is a technique based on feel, so you’ll want to start with a very sensitive rod. I consider river walleyes as “samplers”. As things drift by they suck them in their mouths, sample them and then either eat it or spit it. A bite happens very quickly and you have to react quickly to get a hookset. That said, I would choose at least an IM-8 rod (45 million modulus), the more modulus the lighter the rod and the more sensitive the blank. Combine that with a small, lightweight reel (something rated as light or even ultra-light). Lastly I recommend no stretch FireLine in 6-2 (6 pound test, 2 lb diameter). Because it is a no stretch line, you will have much greater sensitivity, but the no stretch will also make it a little harder to fight in the fish without tearing the jig out of its mouth. For that reason I use a Medium Light action rod. If you want to use mono (say Trilene XL in 6 pound test), then I’d go with a medium action. The medium action rod will compensate for the line stretch on the hooksets. In the Walleye Angler Signature Series of rods from Bass Pro Shops, the WA60MLJS rod is a 6 foot medium light action IM-8 model. The model WA60MS is a medium action IM-8 rod for the same price ($89.99). Add on a Bass Pro Shops Pro Qualifier reel (model PQ10) to either rod and you have a great river jigging combo.

Bass Pro Shops Walleye Angler Signature series Spinning Rods

Question 15

What’s the best line to use for pitching jigs?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Berkley FireLine is a great line choice for vertical jigging, but when it comes to pitching jigs, there are better choices. In the past I have mainly used 6 pound Berkley Sensation – a limber line for casting, but low stretch for better sensitivity. However, with the introduction of Berkley’s Trilene 100% Fluorocarbon XL, I must say that this is the best line for pitching jigs I have ever used. This is a fluorocarbon line that is designed to be limp enough to work well on smaller spinning reels, and still have the characteristics that makes fluorocarbon so advantageous like low visibility and high abrasion resistance. I am also impressed with the knot strength, even in the lower 6 pound test diameters.

Question 16

What length and action of jigging rod works best for ice fishing walleyes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

When asked this question at seminars or on the ice, I always try to help by matching a rod type to their particular type of fishing style. I always want to know if the person likes to sit inside a shelter to fish or if they are more of a stay out on the ice and run and gun fisher, as each spot lends a different answer to what someone should look for in their ice-duty walleye stick.

For inside work, length of the rod is of most importance, as you have to deal with confinement. Here, you are looking mainly at a rod in the 26” to 30” range to avoid hitting the rod tip on the shelter wall as you are jigging and setting the hook. Outside, you do not have to worry about this dilemma, and I would suggest using a rod a bit longer as it allows you to get away with larger guides on the rod and still stay balanced. I personally like a 38” rod for outside duty, but somewhere between the 34” to 38” range is what you should look into. Now, double duty, 30” seems to be the right size in most 2 man sized portable fish houses and 28” for the smaller one man houses.

For rod action, Medium action will be your overall best bet for almost all lure weights and water depths. Now, if your lures are going to exceed a half ounce, get a medium heavy to back-up your medium action rod.

Question 17

What is the coldest water temp you have fished crankbaits in that was productive?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

I have fished cranks all the way to ice up (in fact in skim ice). The key is to slow down as the water temps drop. By slow I mean .8 to 1 mph. So slow that stick baits hardly wiggle, so slow that lead core line goes down at about a 45 degree angle. Remember as the water gets colder the metabolism of the fish goes down. They don’t have to eat as often, they are more selective about what they are going to bite and they are not willing to expend a lot of energy and chase down a meal. Cold = Slow!

Question 18

When do muskies spawn?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Generally muskie will spawn with surface temperatures in the low to mid fifties.

However, cases can be noted on particular bodies of water, where even though water may be cooler or warmer than normal for that particular time frame, some spawning activity will still be noted. So likely timing (I suspect length of the day) is a factor as well as water temperature.

Question 19

What are the best ice fishing lures for jigging up walleyes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

One of the most productive types of jigging lures is what we call Glide Baits, like Moonshine Lure’s Shiver Minnow, This “minnow-like” jigging lure has a dramatic side-to-side darting movement when jigged, giving you great horizontal coverage of the area under your ice hole. The Shiver Minnow comes in a variety of sizes and in an array of awesome “glow” color patterns that last a long time and are deadly during the prime-times of dusk and dawn when walleyes tend to feed the heaviest.

Jigging spoons are another great choice for jigging up walleyes. You want to choose spoons that offer lots of flash, but also have a distinct and enticing flutter on the drop. Top choices here would include the Clam Blade Spoon, the ever-popular Swedish Pimple and Acme’s Sidewinder and Kastmaster spoons. Another lure we like to use for jigging is Clam’s new Time Bomb Spoon.

Each of these have their own distinct shape and therefore feature different flash and flutter patterns. Trying a variety of lures will help you to dial-in the right one to get the most bites.

Question 20

How do I target trophy pike through the ice?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

To concentrate on larger northern pike through the ice, it takes mobility and knowledge of the water. During early ice, big pike can often be found in shallow weed bays and the edges of them, but deeper bars should be tried too–and any sharp break lines. In mid-winter, the main lake water is the best bet. Try deep hard bottom to mud transitions (with dead bait on the bottom); also check for suspended fish in open water on lakes with ciscoes or tullibees.

Late ice pike are most predictable, since pike spawn as soon as the ice goes off or even under the ice. This simply means that big females start to stage by–and get into spawning areas during the last month of ice. There is no doubt that on average, dead smelt or cisco on a quickstrike rig is the best for big pike. Please set the hook immediately to prevent swallowing.

Question 21

What size ice rod and pound test line do you use to ice fish for walleyes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

I like using 2 setups for ice fishing walleye on most bodies of water. One for jigging action baits and one for jigging a jig.

For “action” baits (jigging spoons, gluiding baits or heavier rattle baits) I like a rod with a faster tip (so sensitive and gives you some flex for fighting fish with no stretch line) but with a strong backbone for efficiently working the bait and to securely set the hook into the boney roof of a walleyed mouth. If in a shack I use a shorter rod so I can set the hook without banging into the roof. So look at a 24 to 28 inch model. When I go this short I like to use a Medium action rod. If outside the shack or if you have a taller shack, then go with a longer rod which will be better for taking control of the fish while fighting it. 36 or 40 inch rods should be Medium Heavy to get the right action. For my jig rod – if I am actually jigging the jig I like a Medium action rod. Length is as long as I can comfortably fish based on whether or not I’m in a smaller shelter or not. My favorite would be a 32″ rod. If I am running the jig as a “dead rod” (one you just sit a foot or so off the bottom) then I like a lighter action rod so the softer tip allows the fish to pick up the bait without feeling the stiffness of the rod. Take a look at the Clam True Blue 26″ Light action rod/combo: http://stores.clamoutdoors.com/clam/rods-reels/dave-genz-true-blue-series-1806.html For line I really like Berkley NanoFil 8 pound. It is no stretch so has get sensitivity but it is a “unifilament” line so very slick and not braided or fused. Since it so slick it has less ice buildup – and even when it does it clears off with a simple sweep of my fingers. I have fished a lot of the Clear Mist and the Low Vis Green. For the jig rod I go with a lighter 2 foot leader of 5 lb Trilene 100% Fluoroarbon Ice, for the rod I use with the action lures I like 8lb Trilene 100% Fluoroarbon.

Question 22

What are the advantages to using longer rods (8′ to 9′) for casting for muskie and pike?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Longer rods are better for many reasons, but one of the biggest, in reality is due to the advancements in line. Because we mainly use superbraids these days … having virtually no stretch, the longer rods with tapering, faster tips become necessary as a shock absorber for big headshakes. They generally are much better for casting ease and distance; also for changing lure direction (triggering) as baits near boatside; and, they are much better for boatside figure 8’s or O’s at boatside … larger, wider boatside manuevers can be performed … especially important when fishing out of deep V boats.

Question 23

What Are The Benefits Of Having Trim Tabs On Zv21

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

When the weight in the boat is uneven – you can lower one to flatten the boat. When you are running in a side or front quartering wave you can lift one side for a softer ride. In following waves you can put both down to “hug” the wave and reduce hopping – just don’t overdue it and push the bow too hard into the next wave. Finally going into the waves both down will keep the nose down and let’s the Deep V cut the waves better and again prevents hopping. Great option!

Question 24

When is it better to use fluorocarbon leaders rather than wire leaders?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Fluorocarbon definitely has reduced visibility over wire leaders that is advantageous in any clear water situations. The visibility-factor seems to be most important for trolling applications. For trolling specifically, fluoro leaders are much easier on the body of the fish if they roll in the leader. Fluoro is comparatively weightless and doesn’t kink; however the bad news is sharp teeth can still cut it, so using a minimum of 80 lb. test is recommended and 100 or more is best. Wire leaders are better for many casting applications, as they are abrasion resistant and can’t be cut.

Question 25

What is the best go-to bait for muskies following a cold front?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

If I had to pick one, (and that would be really tough), it would be some type of soft plastic bait, like a Red October Tube or possibly a jig with a plastic trailer. These lures can be worked a little slower and still have great action that triggers bites. Second choice would be a quality deep diving crankbait, working the base of rock points.

Question 26

What are the advantages of using lead core line?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Lead core is not something a novice trolling should attempt. Lead core is very effective, but only if you “work” it the right way. If you just drag it around it is more of a hassle than an advantage. Learn to troll first with mono or FireLine then advance to Lead core!

The first advantage of lead core is that it is a weighted line, so it can pull crank baits down into depths that the bait itself can not dive to. Obviously you would not want to tie lead core directly to the bait as it is a very heavy and thick line and would dampen the baits action. So, a leader is tied to the end of the lead core. If fishing structure this leader would be 15 feet of 10 pound FireLine, if fishing open water the leader would be 30 to 50 feet of Berkley 10 pound XT.

The second advantage of lead core is that you can change how deep the bait swims by changing your trolling speed. This is especially useful on sharp breaks, on bottoms that are irregular or in situations (like fishing over trees) where you need to raise and lower your bait. In these situations, you can speed up your troll to lift the bait. The faster you go, the less the lead core will dive and this will pull your crank bait up to a higher depth. Conversely if you slow down, the lead core will dive more efficiently and pull the bait deeper. By speeding up and slowing down you can raise and lower the bait, keeping it close to whatever structure you are trying to fish.

Question 27

How do I increase my odds of catching a 50 inch muskie?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

First, you have to fish a lake with big muskies. If bigger fish are you’re only goal sometimes you have to change water to achieve your goals. Check for lakes with good track records and more specifically certain times of year when big fish seem to get caught. Every water has its own makeup.

On the water you describe, or on any water for that matter … in general, concentrate on deeper lake sections to find big fish. There are always exceptions, and I’m certain there are times of the year that big fish will be in the shallow section. But bigger fish tend to live in the deep stuff, and shallow structure with deep water adjacent generally has more big fish potential than spots without deep water access.

Casting works certainly, but even though I don’t prefer it, I do believe that trolling in deeper water is simply a better big fish method. You won’t necessarily catch more fish, but per hour on the water I believe more trophy class fish will be taken trolling as compared to casting methods.

Question 28

How, if at all, does turn-over affect the walleyes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Turn over definitely affects walleye – as do most changing conditions. As with all changing conditions, expect a period of tough fishing until the walleyes (and you) adjust to their new patterns. As the name implies, turn over is the warm surface water cooling to a point where it gets colder than the bottom water. The colder top water sinks and the warmer bottom water rises. This “mixes” the entire water column – often to the same temperature, effectively eliminating any thermoclines.

I have found the after turn over, the best areas to look for walleyes are sharp breaks close to deep water. Often these are fairly small areas so using a slower technique like rigging or vertical jigging are often best. You should be able to use your depth finder to find where on the break the fish are holding – or better yet an under water camera. Then present your offering at that depth or slightly shallower (walleyes often sit below the bait fish and feed in an upward direction).

One big thing we do in the fall is switch to larger minnows. Our best by far is to get creek chubs. They are very hardy, live a long time, and when a walleye is close – chubs go crazy. This aggressive response is probably what triggers walleyes more than anything.

Question 29

What leaders for fly-fishing pike?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

I’ve not done a ton of it, but I’ve used either 100 lb. fluoro or the 30lb. titanium. The Fluoro I generally have fairly long as I’ll re-tie quite a bit – checking for nicks in line after each fish – and with titanium just 12 inbches or so with some fluoro (30 to 50 lb.) between it and fly line.

Question 30

What advice would you give to become better at trolling?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Pay attention to where the fish are and get your baits in a zone where they will bite it. When trolling on structure, fish use the structure to hide and ambush their food. Knowing this, it is important to keep your crankbait just off the bottom. Many times for this type of trolling I use no-stretch line (Berkley 10lb FireLine) so I can monitor the bait. I can let out enough line to just tick the bottom, reel up a little and I know my bait is in the “zone”.

For open water trolling, the right zone is often suspended. Many times the most active fish will rise up in the water column to eat and they will often feed in an upward direction. The best place to run a crank bait is at or above where the fish are marking on my depth finder. For this situation a good locator is critical because often open water areas are very expansive and you can waste a lot of time trolling in places where there are no fish.

Once you have located fish, then it is a matter of figuring out the right “system” for the day. How much line to let out, what speed to run, what type of crank bait, what color crank bait – all factors – but all secondary to finding the fish.

Question 31

What’s your favorite search lure for muskies?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

When it comes to “search lures”, the vast majority of folks would give the nod to an in-line spinner (bucktail) and/or a spinnerbait. And frankly they’re dead on – as these baits can be moved quickly, create flash, vibration and generally hook and hold well. The only negative is they’ve been around for years … maybe these fish haven’t seen a swimbait. In fact, it’s likely.

To be specific in this instance (as soft baits with vibrating tails are often referred to as swimbaits), I’m speaking about a Sebile Magic Swimmer hardbait, as that’s where my experience has been. These are double-jointed lures with a head design and internal weighting – that cause them to have an exaggerated, maybe snakelike, swimming action. There are several things that make these lures rate very high as a search lure. Part of being effective with today’s much more experienced (more anglers) muskies – is showing them something different – something that they haven’t already been fooled into biting. For searching, I find that by far, the fast-sinking models are most versatile.

These baits cast like a bullet, allowing for long casts to cover water, and are easy to retrieve. They offer a big (deep sides), aggressive profile and have exceptional action at all speeds (in this case – as fast as you can reel), and the way fish seem to attack them, they hook and hold well (on the largest size, 228, the bait comes standard with three hooks; better hooking for muskies is achieved by removing the middle hook and replacing front and back hooks with 5/0). More “little things” to try to trigger fish can be accomplished once a follower is detected – everything from twitches, to pulls – to a dead pause that turns into a wobbling, swimming fall. The most aggressive retrieve that can often be effective in triggering responses is a very fast retrieve with a continuous, varied twitching of the rod. While you may not think it at first glance, they go through weeds well too.

Question 32

When do you throw top water for muskies in rivers?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Any temp can be good for topwater. River fish are typically suckers for topwater (they like suckers too). Even though topwater baits are normally most productive in the summer and early fall, spring is the most underrated time-frame for them. You needn’t wait for the little duckies to hatch. Types vary, but in general, louder, larger presentations work better in high current, waves and roiled up water.

Question 33

Does a large population of northern pike on weedlines push muskies off the weedlines?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Actually, I don’t believe northerns push muskies off weedlines at all. In general, muskies are bigger (they eat everything they can swallow, which includes smaller pike and muskies … big pike will eat smaller muskies).

Predators often hunt together wherever there is lots of food … the only time there is likely any “pushing off” structure is a situation where several large predators hunt the same zone … any meal-size muskie or pike had better stay out of the way.

Question 34

Are crankbaits ever tipped with bait?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Often when fishing open water with cranks, I put a small chunk of crawler on the middle treble hook. This chunk of crawler can be live or about 1/3 of a Gulp 6 inch Night Crawler.

I typically only add crawlers to diving baits and typically only to ones that are fairly short bodies. I think the crawler not only adds scent to the presentation, but actually gives the bait a bigger profile. Because the crawler will add drag to the crank, only cranks that run very true can handle a crawler.

When putting the crawler on the treble, I look at the treble to determine which of the 3 hooks points straight forward or straight back and then just pluck the very end of the crawler on that hook – leaving the cut end of the crawler to dangle under the crank. By picking this hook, the crawler will not throw the action of the bait off to the side.

Question 35

I just got my first boat – where do I go from here to start catching walleyes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Couple of general comments: If you are just starting out in a boat the big things to think about are 1) How the boat is positioning your lure. 2) How is the boat affecting the action of your lure. Once you start to figure out those two things, then you can start to apply different techniques to the situation you are in. For example, if trolling the lure will obviously be behind the boat. So as you drive the boat you have to think “behind” the boat on where the lure is. If you are in a nice flat spot, then it is easy, the lure is in the same depth that you just drove over. But if you are on a break or on an irregular bottom, then you might have to position your boat shallow or deeper to get the lure in the right depth – or you might have to control your boat to keep you in one depth. Thus the need for “control engines” (a kicker and/or a bow mount). Next you have to think about lure action. For crankbaits, a typical speed to troll is 2mph. But in cold water situation (or in bad weather situations) you might have to slow down to 1.2 mph (or even as slow as .8 mph). In a situation where the fish are active you might be able to cover more water and provoke strikes by going faster (3 to 4 mph). These examples are just cranking. If you are vertical jigging you might use your boat control to precisely follow the speed of the current. If you are pitching jigs your boat control might keep you just within casting distance of a prime spot on structure. For bottom bouncers you might need to speed up or slow down to get the bait behind a bottom bouncer (spinner, slow death, bare hook) to work properly. So learn to run your boat. Rarely (if ever) should you just be drifting with the current or wind. Next learn to read your electronics. With a boat you are mobile. Go to where the fish are, don’t wait for the fish to come to you. As far as cranking lines – I think the most versatile system to start out with is to simply put 10 pound Trilene XT on some line counters. 10pound test is the diameter line most often used for trolling walleyes, and using the data found on the Precision Trolling App or the Precision Trolling Tackle Box Stickers will give you acurate diving depths. Then if you need to go deep, look at adding on something simple like Offshore’s Snap Weights. If you get in a situation where you are fishing on big flat areas for suspended fish – then Off Shore Tackle Side Planer Boards can be added. These same setups will also work great for Open Water spinners. Once you get good with those, then look at using FireLine for cranking (allows you to monitor the line for debris and dives deeper because it is thinner). After that you might start experimenting with lead core.

Question 36

What are some basic lures you’d recommend a beginner muskie angler should start with?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Well, you’ve asked a question that is kinda tough to answer … can be a long story, but short version is that there are 4 basic lure types: jerks, cranks, spinners and topwater (soft plastics could be considered a separate category or part-of one of the others). Of all of these, a crankbait and a bucktail spinner are the most versatile and can be effective in a number of situations.

Overall, I’d recommend the following in each category – at least this should get you started off right:

Crankbait: Here I’d say you need 2; 1 for shallow water situations (5 feet and under) and one that will reach 12 to 15 feet on a retrieve for deeper structure.
Jerkbait: Again, 2 to start with; One with an “up-down” motion like the classic Suick, and then a glider/side-to-side style.
Spinner: Obviously there’s your classic stright-line Bucktail (start with single blade in classic color pattern like black/orange and maybe a white). Could also add in a couple single-hook spinnerbaits in this category for fishing weeds.
Topwater: Once again 2 types would be good to start with; a “crawler” type for slow presentations and a prop-style for more aggressive/faster presentations.
Soft Plastic: Here it’s tough to beat a tube like the Red October tubes. Their hollow design make them easy to rig with different weights for versatility and the hollow design also makes for good hooking percentages.

I would recommend heavily that you spend plenty of time on The Next Bite Muskie/Pike Forum. There you can learn and converse with other muskie anglers on all sorts of topics to help you be a better angler.

Also, it’s really worth hiring a good guide for a trip or two. You’ll learn a ton, but also have a “free” testing ground for lures … so you can see what works and just what baits you like.

Question 37

When do I jig and when do I use tip-ups when ice fishing walleyes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

This depends on what we find once we are on the ice for while. We don’t typically start off setting out tip-ups in an area unless it’s a spot we are real familiar with and know the general pattern for that area. Normally we start with a more “run & gun” system using jigging tactics with maybe a “dead stick” set-up close by. If after a time we feel we have located an area we can camp out on for a while then we may post some tip-ups around to cover the area thoroughly.

Question 38

What size and color of fireline is best for jigging in rivers?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

like to use 6-2 Berkley FireLine – it is more than strong enough to catch huge walleyes (or the occasional big cat). In fact I caught my largest walleye ever on 6-2 – 15.8 pounds, vertical jigging.

In the past I used Smoke colored line. I have switched over in recent years to the Berkley FireLine Crystal, especially in clear water. The Crystal is an “opaque” line that is easy to see above the water but has low visibility below the surface.

Question 39

Is there a difference between hybrids and pure muskies when it comes to night fishing?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

As far as conditions go, there really is no definite set of weather conditions that is better for night fishing. It’s not much different than day really … same stuff you hope for daytime and I like a little chop on the water. What makes me want to night fish is heavy (daytime) angling pressure directed at muskies. This seems to turn some into night feeders.

I do believe some strains of muskie are able to see better at night. It seems the spotted strains of muskie don’t feed quite as effectively as the natural strains we have in WI, but they do. I’ve been told through the years that northern don’t feed after dark — they do. I have little experience with hybrid muskies because we have few here (they are not stocked here), but I have caught two hybrid muskies after dark so I know they will feed then.

Question 40

Are muskie cradles dangerous to use?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Muskie cradles are not necessarily “unsafe” at all. (Although handling muskies is technically a little dangerous in general considering sharp teeth and hooks). Actually, what is very good about cradles is that they lend full support to a fish, horizontally (which is natural), and they can be kept in the water while hooks are cut out.

The only downside to cradles is that they are a little harder to get fish into, as compared to a big landing net or net/cradle hybrid. Also, because they require two hands to use, they’re not practical for the lone angler. So, it’s really personal preference … but for those new to muskie fishing, I suggest a large landing net with knotless, treated mesh because most anglers will be able to land the fish quicker and easier with a good net. Leave the fish in the water in the net over the side of the boat for release.

Question 41

When figure 8-ing at the end of each cast, do you open the spool and ,thumb, it or leave the spool closed?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Either way can work. The only problem with thumbing, is that you may slip on the spool while setting. To me, getting the hookset is extremely important. Without that … the rest won’t matter most of the time.

I leave the reel engaged at boatside … immediately following hookset, I spin the drag back. As long as you are aware to do this immediately, there is plenty of time to get it down as muskie initially react by just shaking their heads.

Question 42

When would you use a snap vs. Keel weight vs. Lead core?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

There are advantages for both Offshore Snap Weights, XPS Keel Weights and I use each about 50% of the time.

For Snap Weights the big advantage is that you can let out any length leader you want before attaching the Snap Weight. If find this particularly useful in clear water. I can remember one bite up on Saginaw Bay (out beyond the Charities) where you needed to have a 150 leader to get the fish to bite – but that is what they wanted.

As mentioned above, the other thing Off Shore Tackle Snap Weights and the longer leader will do is to smooth out the action of the spinner. Sometimes I think walleyes want a nice steady moving spinner so they can locate and intercept it more easily.

A XPS Keel Weight is an in-line weight. It is attached right to your reel’s line with about a 4 foot snell back to the spinner. First of all I think it is important that if you are using an in-line weight you should make it an attractor. What we did with the XPS weights is to make them holographic. I think by having the weight and spinner in close proximity it starts to make the setup look like a school of baitfish – a good thing.

As mentioned the XPS weights are a little easier to fish. Just put them out and attach the board. When you get a fish, detach the board and fight the fish in right behind the weight.

Last, there are times – I think – when the undulating action of the weight, rising and falling from the surging of the boards in waves, actually triggers bites. With the short snell behind the weight, when the weight pulls forward, the spinner surges. When the weight pauses, the spinner pauses and flutters down (maybe looking wounded).

You mentioned lead core – and I have tried it several times with spinner with no luck. I think it might have to do with the lead core line being in the same site plane as the spinner (the spinner does not dive below the lead like a crank bait does).

So, when I spinner fish, I use 1/2 Snap Weights and 1/2 XPS Keel weights and then let the walleyes tell me which is better for the day.

Question 43

What’s the best early season muskie lure?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

That’s the million dollar question anytime you hit the water, but in the spring and early summer there always seems to be a real urgency to make the right choice. A lot has to do with the factors like; the type of lake and the weather, etc. Considering the fact that I’m usually starting off on lakes with clear water, the weather is typically a little unstable with fronts coming through regularly, I’m going to start the season off with some of the smallest lures in my box. Small bucktails, small crankbaits, small jerkbaits, can all be good choices. The slow-sinking, 6 ½ inch Sebile Magic Swimmer is a bait that is perfect for tough, early season conditions. Its small, but has a ton of triggering capability with a seductive action and great flash. Basically I’m looking for lures that I can work slowly and precisely. Chances are in order to get bit in these conditions the lure is going to have to be right in the fish’s face.

That’s not to say you want to eliminate the rest of the tackle selection. If you’re a muskie angler with any amount of experience under your belt you know, these fish are odd, and just when you think you know what they want, they’ll go just the opposite on you. So put the smaller baits at the top of the tackle list, but do not hit the water without having a few big jerkbaits, swimbaits, topwater baits and big bucktails and even spinnerbaits at your disposal. These baits could be just the ticket if the weather patterns give you gradually warming water and stable weather. Keeping observant to the conditions around you will help you determine what lures might be the best to use.

Question 44

When ice fishing for walleyes, when should I set tip-ups, and when should I concentrate on jigging?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

To me, tip-ups and jigging go hand in hand. It all revolves around maximizing my efforts on the ice. Having as many lines in the water at one single time while chasing walleyes – I am maximized!! And, along the same notion, I maximize my efforts to use each line as beneficial as possible to a plan of attack for the piece of structure I might be fishing that particular day.

Flats fishing – here I am looking for slight variables in the flat. A depression, a slight rise or maybe a patch of sandgrass. It’s the little things, and each little thing I find I am going to set either a tip-up on or myself to jig up a fish or two.

Structure fishing – Breaks, underwater points or reefs. Now we want to strategically use all our lines to cover different depths and different parts of the structure. For myself, I am always looking for turns, cups and points with-in each of these different structures. After finding them, I set the traps and then run and gun from hole to hole searching for fish with my jig stick.

Question 45

Where should I look for muskies in a reservoir as opposed to a natural lake?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Without knowing a lot of details, the first thing I’d do is figure out what the forage base in the lake is. That will give you a huge leg up on finding muskies. If it’s shad based, you may be looking at a lot of open water stuff over the creek channel and along the sides of the channel on points and inside turns at certain times of the year. If it’s more of a perch/minnow/sucker/panfish deal, you’ll do a lot more rooting around in the timber. Forage will also sort of give you some ideas on presentation – color patterns and lure size. A good place to start with that kind of research is calling the local DNR fisheries guys and picking their brain about the lake a little. They’re usually really helpful. Another good idea is to see if there are a lot of bass fishermen on the lake. Bass guys stumble into muskies quite a bit on some lakes, and they may be able to provide some info. Have found some awfully good muskie spots over the years by listening to bass heads whine about getting bit off all the time on certain spots.

Another thing to see if you can find out is whether or not the lake stratifies during the summer. If it does, and you can figure out what depth the thermocline develops at, you can eliminate everything deeper than the thermocline. No sense fishing the bottom of the creek channel in 20 feet if the thermocline’s at 12 feet.

You’re right on things changing from season to season. It’ll probably vary widely. But, the usual rules of thumb still apply – look for warmer water early, and follow the food. I know on some of the Illinois lakes, guys do extremely well up in the timber early, either casting spinnerbaits, or even trolling Believers through the stumps. Believers bounce off things pretty good, and with a short line (30 feet) you can control where they run pretty well. If it’s a shad based lake, walk the dog topwaters and rattle trap type baits can be very productive.

Hope this helps.

Question 46

How to set-up tip-ups for walleyes

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Tip-Ups are still a crucial tool for the mobile ice angler. When we rig our tip-ups we will typically spool them up with 30 to 40 pound test Berkley FireLine Braid or Berkley Gorilla Tough in 50 pound test (which makes handling the line in cold temps a breeze) tipped with ten to fifteen feet of leader material. A six to eight pound test mono like Berkley XT is popular, but under the ice, the water can become extremely clear, so a leader material like Berkley’s Vanish Fluorocarbon can be an advantage. The fluorocarbon is virtually invisible under water, making stealthy presentations possible … an important factor when dealing with finicky walleyes. On the business end, we’ll tie on a #8 light-wire treble hook like Mustad’s Ultra Point Triple Grip Treble, and weight that with a medium sized split-shot set ten to twelve inches up the line. Bait the hook with a lively medium sized minnow and you’re in business.

Question 47

What’s your favorite flicker shad color?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

As with any line on crankbaits, every angler has their pet colors that they develop confidence in. The Flicker Shad line of baits offers fourteen “standard” colors, as well as some killer “store exclusive” colors through Bass Pro Shops, Scheels Sports and Mills Fleet Farm. Top producers for us this past season were the standard colors, Rainbow Trout and Racy Shad as well as our all-time favorite Pearl White (which we refer to as “Mouse” because of its gray back and white belly). The Bass Pro Shop exclusive color of Purple Pearl has also become a strong contender and one we fish quite often.

Question 48

When do you decide between live bait (minnows) and berkley gulp minnows?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

I have seen a real trend away from live minnow to using artificials over the last 3 years for jigging. In fact I would say I now try artificials first and only in super tough bites do I have to switch to live.

Jigging in particular is suited to artificial tails. Since you put all the action on a jig there really is no need for a live minnow. What you do need is an artificial tail that is flexible to give it good action when jigged, has a good scent that the fish hold on to, and has a good profile and color.

For me, the 3″ Berkley Gulp! Minnows normally fit the bill. They have great action in the water, look almost like real minnows (Black Shad, Rainbow and Smelt colors), and have a scent walleyes like (I know this because I have intentionally let walleyes swim around with the bait for long periods of time).

A big advantage of artificial tails is their longevity. Because they are more durable than real minnows you can jig them more aggressively. Sometimes a quick pop of the jig off the bottom will trigger fish, the problem with live bait is that you can pop it off – not so with Gulp!.

Secondly, artificial tails sometimes give you a second chance. A fish tries to bite the lure, you set the hook, but miss it. With live bait you would be reeling up to re-bait. With artificials, you simply drop it back down and keep jigging – often provoking the same fish to bite again.

One other example of the success of artificials is Bob Propst Jr. He won the PWT Chamberlain event last year pitching 3″ Power Bait Minnow – Realistics – up on the bluff and felt like they got more bites than real bait.

Good stuff! First stuff on my jig!

Question 49

What is the best speed indicator I can put on my boat for trolling?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

By far the best alternative is to get a GPS unit and use the Speed Over Ground. It is not affected by current or waves and is very precise. In the last couple of years the government has allowed the signals from satellites to travel to the GPS units with very little scrambling, so even at slow speeds you will get a good indication of speed. You can either use a Sonar/GPS combo unit – or even a handheld GPS will do the trick. The other advantage of a GPS is that you will have plot trails so you can reproduce productive passes.

Question 50

What do I do to keep my fireline from spinning on my reel spool?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

For vertical jigging or pitching jigs I use 6-2 FireLine. You can use either Smoke or Flame Green for Vertical Jigging – use Flame Green for pitching (makes “line watching” much easier).

You will want to spool up your spinning reel about one third to half way full of mono backing (other advantage is your spool of FireLine will last for more reels). The backing “grips” the spool and it will never spin out. Then I just use a “figure 8” knot to splice them together. Take your two lines and put them end to end. Keeping both lines together, make a loop in them about 3 inches from the end. Twist the loop one time and put the tag ends through the loop. If you do it right, kind of looks like a figure 8 as you tighten it up. This knot should not be fished – if it starts appearing on the reel – time to re-spool.

Question 51

How do we jig without getting snagged?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

When vertical jigging around rocky/snaggy bottoms there are two keys to reducing snags:
1. Stay perfectly vertical (line straight down) – that way you are setting down the jig and then lifting it straight back up so it is hard for the jig to pull into a crevice.
2. Second, only touch the bottom for a brief moment. Do not let the jig sit on the bottom as the boat will keep moving and when you lift again the jig will be pulling up at an angle and can catch onto a rock/snag.
For pitching – whether in a river or lake – throwing into rocks means you will lose some jigs. You have to maintain bottom contact, but unlike vertical jigging, when you go to sweep the jig back towards you, the jig will be pulling off the bottom at an angle making it more susceptible to coming into contact with a snag. Some things to consider.
1. Use as light a jig as possible. That way the jig won’t work its way as deep into the rock crevices.
2. Use a stand up or semi stand up jig (Fin-tech Nuckle Balls or Bass Pro Shops XPS Jigs are my favorite). These jigs do a better job of keeping the hook up off the bottom so the hook doesn’t snag. It does not prevent the head of the jig from snagging.
The other thing to consider is trying to recover the jig if it does get snagged. I would switch to a higher pound test line and something real durable. Although 6lb FireLine is my typical casting line – I have moved up to 10 or even 14 pound test FireLine in snaggy conditions. Also, if you are trying to pull jigs out of snags, use jigs with hooks that can withstand some abuse. Jigs that use hooks with Mustad’s Ultra Point Technology remain sharper. The technology leaves more metal out in the tip but still delivers a very sharp point. That extra metal prevents the tip from dulling or bending over when you pull it out of a snag.

Question 52

What are some good color and sizes of soft baits for catching walleyes in stained water in early spring?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

For stained water, often the brighter colors will work better. Studies have shown that walleyes can see greens (like chartreuse) and orange the best, so that would be my first two choices. In the Gulp! Minnow Grub, there are several bright colors available including a great looking Chartreuse and Fluorescent Orange. This style bait also has a curl tail which will displace some water as it is jigged and will also attract fish in dirty water. I would stick with the 2 inch version unless you are fishing for a lot of 4 lber’s plus, then go to the 3″ size.

Another choice for stained water is to bulk up your presentation so it displaces more water. Something as simple as putting a piece of a tail on the jig before adding live bait can make a big difference. With any of the Gulp! (or Power Bait) products you also get the added attraction of scent.

Question 53

Is the lss addition for my lowrance hds 5 worth the expenditure?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

I use my Structure Scan in many situations. Most notably on the edge of composition transitions – rock to mud – weed to clean bottom, etc. Using the SideScan I could keep my boat just on the outside of these transitions and then run my lures right over the transition. With the SideScan I could see the rocks or weeds coming onto the screen and know to start turning out before I got right over them.

StructureScan was also nice for just seeing rocks or wood on the bottom that was silted in and not necessarily showing up on the conventional sonar screen.

The DownScan is really nice around any type of vegatation (new or old). It was nice to split the screen and see conventional sonar on one side and DownScan on the other. The downscan did a much better job of showing me weeds, trees, brush, etc – and even fish within that vegetation.

If you don’t have any structure or vegetation you need more details on, then probably not needed for you. Enjoy the new unit!

Question 54

What line (mono vs no stretch) do you prefer to use pulling typical bottom bouncer presentation?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

use 15lb Vanish fluorocarbon for most of my BB fishing. Tough stuff with lower stretch. I do like some stretch for fighting the fish and getting a little shock absorption.

If I go deep (say over 30 feet) then I switch to 10lb Fireline. Once I get that deep I want to be sure to feel the bottom (Fireline has great sensitivity) so that I don’t let out too much line and start dragging the bouncer.

Fireline is also thin diameter so cuts through the water better and typically allows me to use a little lighter bouncer.

Question 55

What would you consider a good jig selection for fishing both lakes and rivers?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

A great set of jigs for most any jigging application is the Bass Pro Shops Walleye Angler XPS Jigs. They come in sizes from 1/16 to 1/2 ounce. For dragging techniques I’d use 1/16 and 1/8 ounce. The head is a “semi-stand-up” so when it hits bottom it will keep the hook up just off bottom resulting in fewer snags. If you are vertical jigging – move up to a 1/4 or 3/8 ounce. The Bass Pro Walleye Angler XPS Jigheads are holographic, so you not only get multiple colors, but also flash. The hooks are Mustad Ultra Point so you will find that they stay sharper than other hooks – even when banged around on rocks and wood.

Question 56

What are some keys to finding baitfish and what are the minimum requirements in a new fish finder?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Being able to find baitfish can be a pretty important deal, especially if you’re fishing suspended fish very much at all. So a depth finder that can pick out either suspended bait, or baitfish on the bottom closer to structure is definitely a plus.

The good news is, if you’re thinking of a new depthfinder, but haven’t shopped for them in a while, you’re going to be pretty pleasantly surprised at the quality and capability of even the more moderately priced units these days. Not sure what your budget range might be, but especially if you’re just looking for a pure sonar, without any GPS capability, you can get a very good unit for well under $300 – sometimes well under $200. A unit like the Lowrance x-125 is a very good, easy to read unit that is more than capable of marking baitfish, and it’s not too expensive. I ran an x-125 on my bowmount last year and was pretty pleased. You can also look at Eagle units, which are very solid as well.

From there, the sky’s the limit on what you want to spend, but the main thing to keep in mind is a unit’s power has a lot to do with how well it’ll mark baitfish (and how clearly it’ll show you weedgrowth, bottom content, etc.). Look for units with higher peak-to-peak power, and you’re headed in the right direction.

Question 57

What kind of pike did I catch?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

You caught a pretty unique fish man. It’s a genetic variation in pike that shows up from time to time. It’s sometimes called a ‘blue pike’ or ‘silver pike,’ depending on who you ask. There are some lakes where they show up fairly frequently. There are a couple lakes in Minnesota that I ice fish that have quite a few of them (biggest I’ve caught is about 12 pounds) and some areas of Canada are known for them popping up once in a while. They can show up anywhere there’s pike, but outside a small handful of systems that have numbers of them they’re pretty rare, and even in lakes known for them, they’re still a tiny percentage of the pike population.

They are definitely a cool looking critter though. They can vary from silvery to almost blue. Definitely can cause some ‘what the hell is that…’ moments when you catch one. Hope you got some photos, because you may never catch another one…

Question 58

Is mono or fireline better when deadsticking?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Unless I am fishing very deep (say 40 feet or more) I use mono or flurocarbon for dead sticking. Remember that one of the things you are trying to do with a dead stick is to detect a bite (by seeing the rod bend) without the fish feeling too much pressure and dropping the bait before you can set the hook. By using mono (I typically use 14 lb Vanish Flurocarbon) you get some stretch in the system and the fish is less likely to detect you. I use 14 pound Vanish because it is invisible to the fish so the extra strength means I will rarely if ever break off on a big fish.

Question 59

How do you search out fish in the post spawn and early summer period on canadian shield lakes?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

In post spawn and early summer, the fish will typically head to where ever the food is. If there are roving schools of bait in open water, they will head there. If there are bug hatches that attract the bait – they will head to those areas. If there are minnow hatches that occur on shallow structure – that is where the walleyes will be.

So the first thing I do is to try to get an idea of what forage is available to the walleyes and then determine where that forage should be. If the walleyes should be in 10 feet or more, I use my electronics to find them – or the pods of bait fish. With a good color unit it is fairly easy to find even bottom hugging walleyes – if they are suspended out over open water it is very easy to spot them. By a “good” unit, I would look for one with 480 or more vertical pixels (for good resolution). The unit should be color to make it easy to figure out what size fish are being displayed (big ones will have more color in the arc). I would also look at some of the newer units with fast Ping and Scroll speeds so you can search more quickly.

If the walleyes are up shallow then fishing is the only way to find them. I try to stay as aggressive as possible to cover water (cranks or quickly pitching jigs) until I get a bite or catch a fish. Then I slow down and work the area over more thoroughly.

Question 60

During practice before a tournament how much do you reply on the camera to eliminate fish species?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

I probably use a camera as much or more than anyone on the circuit. Often I use it teamed up with my electronics. When searching, I simple let out the camera (often a long way behind the boat) and watch my Lowrance unit. When something comes on the screen I don’t recognize I simple wait a few seconds and my camera will pass over it giving me a visual. In this way I learn how to read my fish finder even better.

Second, if I am marking lots of fish, often I will drop down a camera to see what the fish are. I have been able to skip lots of schools of carp the last few years. Schools that showed up as great marks on my depth finder – fish I would have in the past fished to try to identify – I can now quickly identify with a camera.

When looking at a camera:
1) Get infra red lighting – the tips of a walleye and it’s eye’s will glow – an easy indicator. Do not pay extra for Green or Red or White lights.
2) I like units with a “Green Screen”. Basically instead of a Black and White monitor it is Green and White. It give much better contrast and you will see it better in the sunlight.
3) Buy a good case (or hopefully a good case is included). One nice thing about Atlantis cameras is that they come with a padded waterproof case. This allows me to carry the camera all the time without breakage worries. But when I want to use it, in a matter of 60 seconds I am viewing the underwater world of walleyes.

Question 61

What’s the best way to determine how deep a crankbait will run when trolling with lead core line?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Lead core trolling – as you probably know – is very speed dependent. The faster you go, the less affectively the lead core will sink. Also, moving into current lead core will not sink as fast. So here is a rule of thumb – at 2 mph one color of 18# lead (30 feet) will take a lure about 5 feet deeper. If you want to know precisely you will have to “sand test” your set up. Go to a gradual sand taper shoreline and start dragging your baits. Slowly go shallower and shallower until the bait starts ticking – record the depth for that setup. Repeat as needed.

Question 62

I am interested in what type, size, blade, color of spinnerbait to purchase for larger northerns.

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Spinnerbaits are a great bait for big pike. I use sizes ranging from a half ounce on up. This is mostly because I can cast them futher than lighter ones and I like to cover lots of water when possible. For the “safety pin” type, I almost always use willow leaf models as I’m of the belief that they not only have more flash, but enough vibration to do the job.Don’t overlook the Mepps type of spinners either. We’ve caught a boatload of huge pike with them. Mepps are great as are Blue Fox spinners. Somedays they will prefer spinners with a bucktail and other days a plain one will out produce. On the matter of color, it’s best to let the pike tell you which is better on a given day. I will go as far as to suggest silver blades on sunny days and either gold or copper on overcast days.

Good luck out there!

Question 63

Is the suspended bite a pattern you now look for on all the lakes you fish and how do you determine if it is a viable pattern?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

Open water fishing is something I look for on every body of water I fish – except for current conditions in a river. The tricky part about open water fish is that even though they are fairly easy to mark, several things can complicate the bite.

First, the fish may be sitting in open water, just off structure, and are not aggressively eating. They may be just hanging out, waiting for a time to move up on structure and eat. To catch these fish you may have to pull it by tens or hundreds of fish to get one to swipe at the lure.

Second, even though it is easy to spot suspended fish, they often are not eating at the same level as they are swimming. The trick is to figure out the depth where they will bite at a lure. This will normally be somewhere above where they are holding so anglers need to run cranks or spinners at several levels – hoping to get the first bite to indicate what depth is the “eating zone”. Once depth is determined then, through experimentation, figure out what lure, what speed and what colors are the best.

Third, just because fish are in open water does not mean they are eating lures. They may be out there with a ton of bait fish and have more than enough to eat. This makes it hard to figure out a consistent – tournament usable strategy. Open water fish are also very susceptible to changing water conditions. Cooling water in particular will slow the bite down – enough that it may not be viable during a tournament.

If I do figure out an open water pattern – often I will fish it the whole tournament because most of the time these will be the tournament winning fish. If the bite is a little inconsistent then yes, I will use the open water to try to produce a big kicker fish after getting my limit.

Question 64

What is the secret in keeping 18′ plus boats under control?

The Next Bite · Accepted Answer

A couple tips I can give are:

1) Learn to use a bow mount. Modern day bow mounts come with long shafts and lots of power and have the advantage of 360 degree turning. This allows the angler to move the boat a foot left, a foot right, a foot forward or a foot back – whatever it takes to get precise boat control. I rarely use back trolling – a boat was built to move forward.

2) A kicker engine is important because often 18 foot (and larger) boats come with big engines. Any engine over a 50 hp will typically not troll down slow enough for walleye fishing. Often we need to troll down to .8, 1 or 1.2 mph. A 8 to 15 hp kicker can do that with ease. I would look for a 4 stroke kicker – they are smoother, quieter and don’t have any smoke fumes. Find one with a strapping system – or devise one for yourself. Often kicker brackets are not made to handle the rigorous runs in big water. Last get a kicker with shifting in the handle. Most of the new walleye boats have some type of rear deck on them – without shift in the handle it is difficult to bend over and shift the engine. By the way, these exactly the main features we helped design into the Mercury Pro Kicker.

3) In situations with strong cross winds, “dual” boat control is the ultimate in control. Even though a longer boat is great for running waves – this added length can make it hard to control the bow – especially from the back of the boat with just a kicker engine. With “dual” control we use both our kicker and bow mount to maintain a depth. On my boat I have a bow mount called a Motorguide PTSv. It actually tracks depth. So, I can set it for whatever depth I want to stay at – if the wind pushes the bow out deeper, the PTSv pulls shallower, if the bow swings in too shallow, the motor turns out deeper. This keeps the bow on course and I can concentrate on speed control with the kicker. If a tracking motor is out of your budget, then there are a lot of nice Wireless Motorguide motors available. The Wireless Series have a wireless remote control. This small key pad can be used anywhere in the boat and can turn the motor left and right, speed up and slow down and even turn the motor on and off. So, the angler can now run the kicker from the back and at the same time control the bow with the remote control – sweet!

Search through our Site Bite Q&A to find information from the frequent questions we get asked

When ice fishing for walleyes, when should I set tip-ups, and when should I concentrate on jigging?

How Do I Be Efficient When Night Fishing For Muskies?

How Do I Rig Tip-Ups for Walleyes

During a tough bite what type of numbers constitutes a pattern unfolding?

What’s the rule-of-thumb for setting the drag on a reel used to jig big walleyes?

What length and action of spinning rod and what line is best for live bait rigging walleyes?

Inline weights vs. Snap weights! What are the real disadvantages and advantages of each?

Would it make a big difference using vanish vs fireline when vertical jigging?

Weather’s affect on walleye feeding behavior?

What characteristics should I consider when choosing a rod for walleye trolling?

When going after open water suspended walleyes on a large lake, how do you determine where to start?

What’s the best procedure for deploying a trolling set-up when using a weighting system and boards?

What line for trolling walleyes?

What’s a good rod and reel combo for river jigging walleyes?

What’s the best line to use for pitching jigs?

What length and action of jigging rod works best for ice fishing walleyes?

What is the coldest water temp you have fished crankbaits in that was productive?

When do muskies spawn?

What are the best ice fishing lures for jigging up walleyes?

How do I target trophy pike through the ice?

What size ice rod and pound test line do you use to ice fish for walleyes?

What are the advantages to using longer rods (8′ to 9′) for casting for muskie and pike?

What Are The Benefits Of Having Trim Tabs On Zv21

When is it better to use fluorocarbon leaders rather than wire leaders?

What is the best go-to bait for muskies following a cold front?

What are the advantages of using lead core line?

How do I increase my odds of catching a 50 inch muskie?

How, if at all, does turn-over affect the walleyes?

What leaders for fly-fishing pike?

What advice would you give to become better at trolling?

What’s your favorite search lure for muskies?

When do you throw top water for muskies in rivers?

Does a large population of northern pike on weedlines push muskies off the weedlines?

Are crankbaits ever tipped with bait?

I just got my first boat – where do I go from here to start catching walleyes?

What are some basic lures you’d recommend a beginner muskie angler should start with?

When do I jig and when do I use tip-ups when ice fishing walleyes?

What size and color of fireline is best for jigging in rivers?

Is there a difference between hybrids and pure muskies when it comes to night fishing?

Are muskie cradles dangerous to use?

When figure 8-ing at the end of each cast, do you open the spool and ,thumb, it or leave the spool closed?

When would you use a snap vs. Keel weight vs. Lead core?

What’s the best early season muskie lure?

When ice fishing for walleyes, when should I set tip-ups, and when should I concentrate on jigging?

Where should I look for muskies in a reservoir as opposed to a natural lake?

How to set-up tip-ups for walleyes

What’s your favorite flicker shad color?

When do you decide between live bait (minnows) and berkley gulp minnows?

What is the best speed indicator I can put on my boat for trolling?

What do I do to keep my fireline from spinning on my reel spool?

How do we jig without getting snagged?

What are some good color and sizes of soft baits for catching walleyes in stained water in early spring?

Is the lss addition for my lowrance hds 5 worth the expenditure?

What line (mono vs no stretch) do you prefer to use pulling typical bottom bouncer presentation?

What would you consider a good jig selection for fishing both lakes and rivers?

What are some keys to finding baitfish and what are the minimum requirements in a new fish finder?

What kind of pike did I catch?

Is mono or fireline better when deadsticking?

How do you search out fish in the post spawn and early summer period on canadian shield lakes?

During practice before a tournament how much do you reply on the camera to eliminate fish species?

What’s the best way to determine how deep a crankbait will run when trolling with lead core line?

I am interested in what type, size, blade, color of spinnerbait to purchase for larger northerns.

Is the suspended bite a pattern you now look for on all the lakes you fish and how do you determine if it is a viable pattern?

What is the secret in keeping 18′ plus boats under control?

Is there a secret formula for tying crawler/spinner harnesses for big water like saginaw bay?

What do you use to log your fishing information?

What would be the best tactic for ice out pike?

Is there a difference patterning early season muskies in clear water vs murky water?

After a severe cold front and fish are in a funk in a lake environment what do you usually resort to and why?

What is handlining?

If I’m running 2 locators on my boat can I get interference when running both at the same time?

Do I load a backing onto the reel before I load the lead core?

How do you know what your trolling depths are when you deviate from the 50/50 method?

What length of fluorocarbon leader should I use on spinners?

When fishing a fairly clear shallow lake, how close to the boat can you pull a bottom bouncer/spinner or bottom bouncer and rig and still expect to get bit?

Do you segment the leadcore for open water trolling?

Can a person locate walleye while using their gas motor without spooking the fish?

Do you fish for tiger muskies any differently than pure muskies?

When you use a long lead on a harness to a snap weight, do good hooksets begin to be a problem?